Pangaimotu is a small coral islet about one mile off the docks of Queen Salote Wharf in Nuku’alofa, the main-island capital of the Royal Kingdom of Tonga. It’s a small family-operated pleasure resort on its own little island, and is host to one of the kingdom’s largest coral reef reserves.
On the boat ride from the wharf, Pangaimotu catches your eye like a not-so-distant paradise. With the hot Polynesian sun beaming down on you, the little motorboat that ferries you there just isn’t fast enough. After ten minutes, you’re there. The wooden ramp on the dock leads you straight under a banana leaf thatched roof. You order a drink at the beachfront bar.
Pangaimotu is especially popular on Sundays, because just about everything else in the kingdom is closed. On the Sabbath, it is unlawful for Tongans to work, trade or even create noise disturbances. There are no sporting events and all contracts signed on Sundays are void. The only people allowed to do business are a few select foreigners that operate somewhere off the main islands. Such is the case at Pangaimotu.
Everything here is so tiki, but it doesn’t look like it was done on purpose. You get your drink and find a seat on one of the wooden benches in the dining area. You're right on the water's edge.
People from everywhere, mostly Tonga, are laughing, splashing and playing in the warm clear water below. They’re on the beach playing volleyball, lounging on the sun-drenched deck and lying around in hammocks. Some are out snorkeling over scores of tropical fish, while others are busy eating under the restaurant’s shady canopy.
Food is a big deal in Tonga. Plates stacked high with fresh tropical fruits and huge servings of local seafood are brought to the table next to you. You also order a meal.
After lunch, you spend most of the day the day strolling around the pristine beaches, and wading in what feels like a heated fishtank. About 100-feet offshore, there is a half-submerged ship wreck that you can climb-up and dive from. But, you’d have to swim in line with a bunch of youngsters in order to get your turn. You end up snorkeling.
Little florescent blue fish brush by your legs, and a couple sea cucumbers explode when you step on them, emitting huge white stands of sticky-icky nasty goo that clings to your feet and legs like some jelly adhesive. Jumbo starfish stare up at you from underneath the water; they are orange, and yellow and purplish black.
After an hour or two, your skin begins to prune and the bar begins to lure you ashore. You spend the rest of the afternoon making friends and sharing drinks. Within a few hours, Pangaimotu gets quieter, and folks start gathering around the deck area to watch the fabled Tongan Sunset.
Smears of pink, red, and tangerine begin to glow across the tropical sky. The fresh ocean breeze picks-up and hundreds of palm trees gently rustle in the background. It becomes one of the most tranquil experiences you could ever imagine. You just sit and watch. Amidst the wavering silence and the unquestionable beauty, you can’t help but thank god for Sundays...and Pangaimotu.
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